The Coiba Experence

By Dr. Todd Capson
Smithsonian Institute of Tropical Reseach in Panama.


The Coiba National Park (CNP) is situated off the Pacific Coast of Panama in the Gulf of Chiriquí. These uninhabited islands that make up the park have a wild and spectacular beauty. The calm waters around these volcanic jungle-clad islands offer some of the world's best diving. The CNP is also an area of growing interest to the scientific community, for its abundance and unique marine and terrestrial flora and fauna and the largest coral reef in the eastern pacific. The Coral Reefs found in the Coiba National Park are the result of a happy geographical and geological phenomena. First, Panama's Cordillera Central, that runs from Costa Rica to the center of the country shields the Gulf of Chiriquí, meaning its waters are relatively protected and warm; conditions conducive to the growth of coral. Secondly, Coiba is bathed by Indo-Pacific currentls meaning that it is exposed to waters and organisms that would otherwise be found in the South Pacific, far from Central America.

The diving has been described as a mixture between the Galapagos Islands and the Cocos Islands, Costa Rica. However this area is virtually virgin territory for the diver. The water temperature at the surface is around the low 80's, however thermoclines are common at depth dropping the temperature too the mid 70's. Currents are variable depending on the tide. A 12ft to 20ft tidal exchange is present around the islands. The visibility on average is around 70feet. There are no land-based operations diving present and only one live aboard dive boat in the whole area.

The majority of the diving takes place around off shore pinnacles or seamounts. These jagged volcanic pinnacles rise from deep water, some break the surface while some rise only to within 120ft from the surface. These rocks hold an abundance and diversity of life, which at times can be only described as spectacular. Huge schools of Barracuda, Jack, Rainbow Chub and Pacific Spade fish are common. Giant Manta and Spotted Eagle rays frequent the area. Schools of Devil and Mobola rays too.

White Tip reef shark along with Tiger, Bull, Hammerhead, Black Tip and Galapagos shark are common. Along with Jew Fish, Amber Jack and Giant Snapper and three species of Turtle.

There are only a few species of hard and soft corals. However these are abundant on many sites. In amongst the rocks the diversity of life continues. Sea Horse, Pipe Fish, Frog Fish, Stargazers, Nudibranch, Harlequin Shrimp and many types and color of eel, from Starry Moray's to Giant Green Morays. Big animal encounters are frequent. Humpback, Sperm and Pilot whales migrate through the park. Orcas and Whale shark can be seen at certain times of year too. Dolphins are a common sight, even on Scuba.
The shallower dive sites around Coiba Island in the 10 too 40 feet range are cleaning stations for many type of marine life.

At certain times of day these sites bristle with life waiting too be cleaned by Silver Grunts, King Angel, Sergeant Majors, Butterfly Fish and Wrasse . Giant Nurse shark are also a frequent visitor to these shallow areas, seeking sheltered places too sleep.
The abundance of life around these islands is truly spectacular.

However this area is becoming more exposed to the threat of illegal fishing. Commercial Long Line, Shrimp and Tuna Boats are damaging and depleting the marine environment at a rapid rate, with the shark and turtle populations being the greatest affected.

The island of Coiba still has some 80% of its original forest cover, due in large part to its status as a penal colony which has impeded colonization and resource extraction. However, the remaining prisoners are scheduled to be removed around the end of 2001. The CNP is part of the nearby province of Veraguas, considered one of the poorest provinces in Panama. Accordingly, in the absence of any credible deterrent, the island will be threatened by invasions of poor rural farmers as well as activities such as hunting and timber extraction by mainland residents.

ANAM, the Panamanian authority responsible for patrolling and policing this and other national parks in Panama have limited resources to patrol what is the largest marine national park in Central America. If the problems with illegal fishing are not addressed promptly, much of the marine life that make this place unique will be gone. The threat is not only to the marine life but also to the terrestrial fauna and flora. The people that live in this area desperately need the influx of tourism and the jobs and revenue it would bring to their communities now and in the future. It is our hope that by publicizing this remarkable area, desperately needed attention will be focused on the area which will help develop Coiba's nascent tourism industry.